my first bulgarian climb

Hey guys,

So finally after months of searching, questioning the locals, climbing my apartment walls and occasionally crying myself to sleep, I got a chance to climb on real rock. I couldn't believe it! Furthermore, this opportunity came when I least expected it and turned out to be a most peculiar story. For all of you non-climbers, some of this might not makes sense, but please bear with me.

It all started this beautiful Thursday afternoon, when I was in my office diligently translating my parks web page from Bulgarian to English. Out of nowhere a guy I occasionally work with on bat related projects rushes into my office and said, "Justin, what are you doing right now?"

"Um, working," is my tentative response.

"Forget about that now, go grab you climbing gear and meet me at the Tourist Information Center in 5 minutes. I found a climbing site," he fires back. I decided two things right then; one, I really wanted to go out climbing; two, that this translating wasn't really that important after all. Five minutes later I was geared up and we were on our way out to the crag.

Now, I have lived out here for over seven months and I have never seen a spot that was climbable, so I was understandably curious as to where we were going to climb. Before too long we pulled out on to an old deserted road, parked the car and hiked about 10 minutes to the base of our climb which was located in the middle of an old abandoned marble quarry.

I have climbed my fare share of different types of rock; granite, limestone, sandstone, even the occasional brick building, but I have to admit that this is the first time I have ever climbed on marble. It makes for some interesting climbing, mostly due to the fact that the sections that weren't polished smooth as a counter top were as chossy as it gets, like big, pull huge hand holds off the route every two moves type of chossy.

Anyway, we came to a section that looked do-able and fun, and had enough variation that we could climb it a few times without setting up our rope more than once. We tossed our gear down and hiked around to the top of the climb so that we could set up a top rope. Now, I knew he didn't have all the gear we would need to lead up the route, which was a moot point given the sheer chossy-ness of the route, but when I dumped his gear bag out on the ground to see what I had to build an anchor with, my mouth dropped a fraction of an inch.

It made me realize just how spoiled I had been when I used to build anchors out double sets of hexes, double sets of nuts, and double - triple sets of cams. However, this time I found myself with the following: 2 old dirty 10.4mm caving ropes used for sketchy underground repels, 1 locking carabineer, 4 petzl quick draws, 7 pieces of assorted webbing and one ratty bungee cord used to secure things to a car carrier. That was it. There was nothing else.

I'm not going to go into much detail about how I finally got the anchor working for fear of bringing back painful memories, but needless to say it wasn't equalized, didn't have 3 main points and didn't have backups. I can say that, being totally honest, I have probably made better looking anchors. Good news thought was that neither of us ever fell on the anchor, and I held every time we were lowered. So I did my job well.

As for the routes themselves, I think my overwhelming excitement to finally be on real rock again made what was otherwise boring routes in to sweet projects. Plus, it was like a guessing game since approximately half of the available holds wouldn't support my weight. I like to keep it interesting. Due to such unfavorable climbing conditions though, I think I may have well been the first person to ever attempt the routes that we went up, which means I finally got the coveted 'first ascent.' Good work, Justin!

It was a good time though and none of the routes were too difficult, which to be honest is probably a good thing since I have been on hiatus for so long, most averaging around a 5.ghetto or so.

So, my first Bulgarian climbing trip turned out to be a rather unorthodox one, but now I can add marble to my list of rock types climbed and quarry to my list of locales. All in all it was a good trip.